Core aeration allows water and nutrients to easily reach the root level of your lawn and controls lawn thatch, leading to thicker, stronger roots for a healthier lawn. Read more about how your lawn care program can benefit from core aeration.
• The best time to mulch is early fall, spring and summer. Mulch retains heat and moisture.
I’m sure a lot of you out there have been searching for a step by step annual lawn care treatment for your lawn. Well here at A Plus Lawn Care we hope to help you with just that. Here is the process we use to maintain our customers lawn from weeds and brown spots, and helping our customers have a beautiful green lawn all year lawn.
• Step one: In Early Spring (February-April) Use a crabgrass pre-emergent herbicide application. It will prevents crabgrass seeds to germinate during their season.
• Step two: Late Spring (April-June) Use a weed control application. This will prevent any other weeds from growing in your lawn.
• Step three: Fall (September-November) We suggest you aerate, seed, and fertilize your lawn, so it can sustain the Winter.
In case you don’t know what aerating is, click on our Aerating page blog for more information.
We hope this help someone of you, please don’t forget to leave your comments.
You can have a beautiful lawn in five steps.
•First step you want to take is, removing your old lawn, you can do this by either using herbicides or sod cutter.
•Use a rototiller to loosen up the soil, hardware stores like Home Depot rent them by the hour. If you have a lawn smaller than 1/4 acre you can get away with using a rake.
• Spread the grass seed evenly over the tilled/raked area. You can do it by using a hand spreader or use a walk behind seed spreader for larger areas.
• Cover the seed with a light layer of soil. There are treated soils available that provide balanced nutrients encouraging the growth of new grasses, or for a budget friendly option use a few bails of hay.
• Water appropriately. Keep the soil around the seed moist until the new grass grows as tall as the grass around it. If you overwater the grass, the seed will drown. If you don’t water it enough, the newly sprouted grass will dry up and die.
There are hundreds of species of mosses found in temperate climates. However only a few are troublesome as lawn weeds. Moss may be a problem wherever one or more of the following situations are present:
•low levels of nitrogen
•poor air circulation
•excessive shade
•low soil pH
•poor drainage or compaction
•low mowing height
•any maintenance practice that puts stress on the grass plants
Liquid lawn aeration is done by spreading a chemical product across the ground, just as you would use liquid fertilizer. Liquid aerators add humic acid, polymers, and other materials that claim to change soil chemistry, soften the ground, and allow more oxygen to get to the roots. They also break up sodium deposits and encourage more earthworm activity to help open up the soil.
Leaving the grass clippings when you mow (called “grasscycling”) provides good nutrients for the lawn and saves you time and money–no more raking and bagging. While you can use a conventional lawn mower for the job if you mow over areas twice, an easier way to grasscycle is to get a mulching lawn mower.
A mulching lawn mower cuts up the grass blades into fine pieces and blows them down into the grass near the soil, where the clippings then break up and fertilize the lawn.
One of the cheapest and easiest ways to significantly improve the health of your lawn is to fertilize at last 3 times per year. Ideally, you can fertilizer in early spring, mid-summer, and fall. Optimal results can be achieved by fertilizing up to 5 times per year. You can do this by fertilizing every 2 months during the growing season.
Even a smaller sized lawn (50 ft. x 50 ft.) daily releases enough oxygen to meet the needs of a family of four for 24 hours and absorbs carbon dioxide, ozone, hydrogen fluoride and other toxins.
The first thing to remember is that snakes are timid and discreet. Most reports of snake bites involve victims who needlessly engaged a snake. Snakes in general are far more sacred of you than you are of them.
That being said, no one wants to see a snake slithering across their lawn or hiding in a basement. Here are some tips to making sure snakes stay off of your lawn.
How would you like to improve your lawn?
Keeping Snakes off the Lawn
Keep your garden and lawn inhospitable to snakes. It is impossible to keep snakes from passing through your garden, but it is possible to make sure they don’t stop and make a home there.
Watch out for mulch piles. Snakes enjoy snug, warm environments for reproducing and living. If you have a big mulch pile, snakes (and rodents) may try to make a home there. Try to make sure you mix it up as often as possible. You can also build the pile in a wire cage so that air and water circulates through it, making it more inhospitable for long-term living.
Trim Your Hedges
Trim small trees and shrubberies. Gardeners encourage that you make sure that the lower limbs on small trees and shrubberies should be a couple of feet above the ground. If branches dangle to the ground, snakes and rodents will make a happy home at the foot of your garden trees.
If a thick ivy wall or expanse is part of the beauty of your garden, do what you can to limit the growth under the ivy itself.
Cut Your Grass
Cut your lawn. Tall grass can become a home for snakes. Happily, most lawn grass will have trouble getting tall enough, but landscaping grass like monkey grass or pampas grass, will provide a perfect home for snakes if not trimmed or controlled properly.
About the Author
Alex Russel is a freelance writer living in Brooklyn, NY. Since graduating from Syracuse University he has worked at many different media companies in fields as diverse as film, TV, advertising, and journalism. He holds a dual bachelor’s degree in English and History.